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iqless
Приєднався 19 сер 2016
OpenScad: Tweaking an existing model
UA-cam Video
ua-cam.com/video/8kTwPoa8CLg/v-deo.html
Printables
www.printables.com/model/942200-square-pot-no-drain
www.printables.com/model/37734-square-pot
ua-cam.com/video/8kTwPoa8CLg/v-deo.html
Printables
www.printables.com/model/942200-square-pot-no-drain
www.printables.com/model/37734-square-pot
Переглядів: 97
Відео
OpenScad: Creating Orange Lego Stud Safety Tip for Lego Stormtrooper Rifle
Переглядів 7372 місяці тому
OpenScad: Creating Orange Lego Stud Safety Tip for Lego Stormtrooper Rifle
3D Printing: Hallowing out a Nuka Cola Bottle in OpenScad
Переглядів 2832 місяці тому
3D Printing: Hallowing out a Nuka Cola Bottle in OpenScad
3D Printing: The Homeschool Conference is Over
Переглядів 4142 роки тому
3D Printing: The Homeschool Conference is Over
3D Printing: 0.8 Nozzle on Double Size T-Rex
Переглядів 3492 роки тому
3D Printing: 0.8 Nozzle on Double Size T-Rex
3D Printing: OpenScad Customizing Spool Holder
Переглядів 2162 роки тому
3D Printing: OpenScad Customizing Spool Holder
3D Printing: Bring your 3D printer on Vacation?
Переглядів 1312 роки тому
3D Printing: Bring your 3D printer on Vacation?
3D Printing: T-Rex Skull 0.8 Nozzle First Look
Переглядів 2772 роки тому
3D Printing: T-Rex Skull 0.8 Nozzle First Look
3D Printing: Rode Wireless GO II Handheld Adapter
Переглядів 5432 роки тому
3D Printing: Rode Wireless GO II Handheld Adapter
3D Printing: Fab365 Millennium Falcon Stand
Переглядів 2552 роки тому
3D Printing: Fab365 Millennium Falcon Stand
3D Printing: Fusion 360 Chamfers and Lofts
Переглядів 3392 роки тому
3D Printing: Fusion 360 Chamfers and Lofts
3D Printing: Printables 5 Father Day Prints
Переглядів 4232 роки тому
3D Printing: Printables 5 Father Day Prints
3D Printing: Fab365 Free Millennium Falcon
Переглядів 1,4 тис.2 роки тому
3D Printing: Fab365 Free Millennium Falcon
3D Printing: Prusa Slicer Saving Nefertiti
Переглядів 1762 роки тому
3D Printing: Prusa Slicer Saving Nefertiti
3D Printing: Trex Skull Stand and Plaque
Переглядів 1252 роки тому
3D Printing: Trex Skull Stand and Plaque
3D Printing: Loft Like Technique in OpenScad
Переглядів 6172 роки тому
3D Printing: Loft Like Technique in OpenScad
3D Printing: Customizable Periodic Words
Переглядів 672 роки тому
3D Printing: Customizable Periodic Words
3D Printing: Creating a top in Fusion 360
Переглядів 1452 роки тому
3D Printing: Creating a top in Fusion 360
3D Printing: OpenScad Scripting the Periodic Table
Переглядів 1192 роки тому
3D Printing: OpenScad Scripting the Periodic Table
3D Printing: Customizable Pool Torpedo
Переглядів 6052 роки тому
3D Printing: Customizable Pool Torpedo
That's called stippling and is 100% not fuzzy
I would say stippling is specifically dots. This is different and can definitely fall under the definition of fuzzy. Don't think furry texture, but rather as perception. Blurry, distorted, vague.
Hmm that brings up another good idea for the prusaslicer make an area.... dotty?
Looks like that’s exactly 90°. Be careful out there friend. Remember, 91° is no longer vertical :)
Might wanna be safer than sorry an' slap it to 95
I re-watched my video did I miss something? Is the object a little off kilter?
@@iqlessA 90° vertical grip is illegal to put on a pistol, a 91° is technically legal. He was just making an NFA joke
@@linfraredl4906uh why? How does a vertical grip constitute an emergency?
Interesting. Thank you for posting Just getting into knowing what I 'need to know' in printing magnets
Magnets are fun :)
I'm surprised you didn't use the Measure Distance tool to get some base measurements from the imported stl.
I was not aware of that feature I will have to do a video on that one
@@iqless There is also a Measure Angle tool.
thanks! i did not know about the "$preview" global!
Yeah me either until someone mentioned it to me. Now I use it as a standard.
Wonderful video about my favorite CAD program! There is one feature that I NEVER see anyone talking about or using in tutorial videos, and it would be VERY useful for these videos, and for every user in general. This might be the MOST useful feature of this wonderful program. Put your cursor just to the right of any digit, press and hold ALT and then press up arrow to increase that digit or down arrow to decrease. Previews will update instantly, and it makes fine adjustment SOOOO simple. If you need more precision, ALT-right will add decimal places to the number, and you will then adjust THAT digit up or down instead. ALT-left works just the way you'd think it would. This would make doing those adjustments you had to do to match up the edges MUCH easier and faster. Try it, you'll soon come to depend on it!
oh wow, that is so handy!
Oh that is nice. I am making a short showing how to do that one. I would use this all the time!!!
@@iqless I have another cool tip which can save a LOT of typing too if you want to hear about it. The instructions for this one are quite a bit longer, so I could send you an email if you give me an address, or try to post it here. It's to do with the right-click pop-up menu 'Insert Template' function, and how to create your own blocks of code to use as templates. You can use it to insert anything you want, including something like translate() rotate() cube() all in one go.
Don’t want a drain hole how can I fix that
You can tweak it in OpenScad I made a video answering your question ua-cam.com/video/Ignow3kcpKg/v-deo.htmlsi=aw-dGW-aia9LGQUU And if you just want a pot with no drain I uploaded a version here www.printables.com/model/942200-square-pot-no-drain
Use wide tape to press down on top the bb’s to get them off the top
ohh goof idea
The fluke is only more accurate if you have the emissivity set correctly for what you are trying to measure and the same is probably true of the generic, so I can't conclude anything much based on your video for failing to do this, except to conclude that out of the box, the fluke seems more accurate at translucent cold things. ;)
They get "beat up a little bit"? What on earth are you doing with them? The main thing is will they survive battery changes, and will the ones with the printing on the rubber buttons, have that printing wear off. I don't beat my equipment up per se, but I admit that i may not always wash my hands and/or wear soft gloves, so eventually printed-on rubber buttons do have their markings wear off which is really, REALLY annoying because it didn't have to happen, would have been so simple for them to mold that into the plastic next to the button too or just just use hard plastic buttons with that molded in (not still printed on, or else there was no point).
This was very helpful, my printer is working great again. Thank you! :)
Great to hear!
What if you want xyz to be different like? X 50% Y 45 % Z 48%
Near the Scale factor click the lock to unlock it then you can change each one to a different size
I. Did. Not. Know. This. I feel so smart now. THANKS!!!!!
Yeah its kinda neat!
Gatac has some awesome designs, I absolutely love the almost marble like panels on the suyulen
Very interesting thanks!
Yeah it can speed things up a bit. Also I have found the nightly builds render much much faster So I imagine once they release the next version of OpenScad it won't be much of a help except in very complex designs.
This is great. I don't know what it is. Will probably never use it. But it's great! ❤
I have used it recently for a few prints. I am glad I did not have to have brims on objects that did not need it :)
I've no idea what this program is, but I like your closing line.
It Fusion 360 a great 3D cad program from Autodesk It can be used for free for educational purposes see www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal And thanks for the compliment. I thought it was a good closing line :) Seeing how I am IQ Less :)
Oooh, what's that fig?
It's one of bigbricks designs check em out at thangs.com/designer/BigBricks
While this doesn't really apply here, did you know that you can set a lower preview resolution than when you render? $fn = $preview ? 6 : 128; linear_extrude(4){ circle(d=10); } Also, with the nightly builds they added measure distance and measure angle. This is under Design on the menu and the scene has to be rendered.
I did not I will have to go check that one out. I am always swapping from low to high when designing vs final render. That would be very useful
hello, iqless!
Hey Ozzloy :)
Awesome work man ive been looking for a good place to learn more about openscad and i finally found your channel. Cant wait to see what you work on next.
Thanks for giving me a look. I like openscad and will be doing more videos on that subject :)
Neat!
If you have an old FW (like 4.3.4) you can't directly upgrade to FW 6.0.0. You need to first upgrade to FW 4.4.1, then to FW 6.0.0.
Thank you, I was completely stuck for hours
@@Eng586 You're welcome! I was struggling with this too, it's surprising that this issue isn't well documented on the internet. Glad my comment helped!
I havent done any maintainence on my Prusa Mk2 since 2018 and it prints beautifully every day. I tell a lie, I greased the linear bearings last week. Thats it though.
This Prusa company plays dirty. It's interesting to hear about what setting problems your account had. I bought a new board because my mk3 printer quit printing after about 10 pieces. The new board introduced a new set of problems. I'm fed up with prusa.
I'd use small lead shot, and clear the top flush with duct or gaffer tape to pull off any ones sticking up.
That was easy. Thanks so much its a great help...
Also parts are not forever, long time clicking repaired by changing original spring that couldnt hold filament tight enought anymore.
Wish I could locate an actual Peruvian Elongated Skull stl file… Not one of the Fake ones or a “Board Binding” Victim, but one based on /Rendered from Actual Back room, Elongated Skulls..
Learned a lot with this video. Thank you.
What is the length of the idler screw
laser thermos are a sham. fluctuates all the time. can't get steady accurate readings because it's hitting different air particles on top of hitting surface particles with gloss deviations at different regions all the time. even the fluke branded ones made in the states are useless. also, how do you know the fluke is the more accurate one? maybe the chinese one is more accurate since you didn't test with a full contact third party thermometer
The PTFE tube is directional. The ends are slightly tapered
I appreciate your work, but your measurements are not really accurate. You have to adjust the emissivity settings when measuring shiny surfaces like a stainless steel pot. And even then it is pretty much hit or miss.
What's your resolution settings for the 0.2 nozzle and what resolution settings can you recommend for a 0.4 nozzle
Could you upload the bigger one in pieces by chance? I could try it, but good chance I will mess things up lol. Great work btw!!
Great informative video. My daughter picked up a couple of sample bottles this weekend at SMRRF in Oxford. I couldn't see any directions so I wanted to check how to apply it. Now I know that it works and how to apply it. In fact the only downside is that I no longer need to make a video while seeing if it works 😂. I would have like to have seen the test twisted but imagine it would still hold. Top job fella
Your absolute min. layer heights for a 0.25mm nozzle should be 0.06mm. You should not cross a certain ratio between nozzle size e.g. 0.4mm or 0.25mm and layer height. The smaller the nozzle the smaller layer you can print and vise versa. You also get stringing because you remelt the previous layer, lower your temps, increase cooling, increase travel speed, turn off z-hop, increase retraction, turn on wipe while retract and tune it. Those should help with stringing a lot.
Should have called this video how to try and fix your Prusa, fail and waste everyone’s time. Thanks for wasting my time.
How do you get this fucking thing to fucking work
Thanks for sharing!
I don't know why when I set just_display to false my model dissapear from the view...
I got an issue, the brass fittings on the extruder and tube are stuck together. Is there a way to split them apart? i.imgur.com/YMkweb3.png
Wow.. This is good.. As a software programmer, i have always felt bored spending hours making a single model in blender and other mouse based CAD software...models not easily reused, moving the mouse, shortcuts, hidden menus...... OpenScad is like my way out
Very cool idea, I've been looking for a pumpkin for a while that can be printed in segments and therefore larger than the printing area. The only thing missing here would be a scary face. If the individual segments were even closer together it would certainly look very cool, what do you think?
Gonna make a lid for a garbage can!
Should have before & after clips on how the speed of printing after firmware update
What 3D printer do you use for this?
This was a great video. Thanks
Thank you 🙏🏼 for the video. I have not done this in a while an totally forgot how to do it 😂